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Jelap La Pass:
A Tibetan world, La means pass and Jelap La - the lonely,
level, pass. Nearly 46 metres (150 feet) in length, situated at an
altitude of 4,267 metres (14,300 ft), it is passable for most of
the year. The journey from Darjeeling, is via Pedong to Ari,
Sendochen and " Gnatong to Jelap Pass. The road from Kalimpong to Rhenok, 8 km from Pedong, is through a pastoral
setting, a frontier town, Rhenok is the gateway to Sikkim, Bhutan
and Tibet. One road passing through a secluded region of peace
and bliss reaches Ari in Sikkim, The other leads to Tibet and
Bhutan. Sendochen is steep stiff, 19 km away. Magnificent forests
of Rhododendron lead to Gnatong. On the way to the pass is the
Bidong Tso Lake, with very little signs of life, a fore-runner of
what to expect at the pass-bleak, barren and desolate, where the
wind howls all night, all year round. The summit, though, offers a
wonderful view looming large in the distance, is the yellow and
brick-dust Tibetan Plateau. Beyond, lies t the world's most
beautiful peak, Chomal Hari, never failing to bewilder the
awe struck visitor. |
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Nathula Pass:
Five kilometres to the North of
Jelap La pass, on the same,
altitude on a range that runs into Tibet, is the Nathula Pass on
the Sikkim -Tibet frontier. The zig-zag track becomes steeper as
it leaves Gangtok, but makes up in the changing landscape which
becomes more sublime with every inch of ascent till it reaches the
calm waters of the Lake, Nuk Tanyi in a region which is bleak and
dismal. From the summit, two roads, from both Jelap and Nathula
passes unite in a track leading to the Chumbi valley of Tibet. On
the one side stands a chain of imposing peaks dividing Sikkim from
Tibet, on the other yawning abyss of ravines and gorges.
At Nathula, the Chinese and Indian troops face each other
almost at breathing distance. Jelep La was used by Younghusband to
attack Tibet in 1903 and to commemorate this, the path through
Jelap-la is called the Younghusband track. Nathula and Jelap La
passes formed a part of the trade route between India and Tibet
till 1962.
Veteran climber John Easton wrote :
"
The wind swept, cold and pure, cut against our faces
whistled in our ears filled our eyes with tears, but all unheeded
as we gazed at the marvel stretched before us. For all doubts
faded and fears were dispelled as before us stretched immortality.
purification, a revelation of the world as God sees it,. where no
man has stepped to mar it. "
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Dongkhala Pass
It takes ten arduous days and an iron will to reach this pass from
Darjeeling, the route starting from Gangtok and taking a
circuitous track, where even bridle paths do not exist. At 3,059
metres (12,000 ft) mountain sickness sets in but where nature
takes it also invariably gives, on reaching the summit, all
queasiness vanishes and nature unfolds her secrets-the vista of a
new world lies before the gratified and bewildered beholder. Away,
visible, in the distant horizon is the great Tibetan plateau,
seamed with undulating coloured hills; on the north side of the
plateau, standing at an altitude of 5,181 metres (17,500ft), is
the calm and placid Cholamo Lake, 6.5 km long and 2.5 km wide.
From the sublime heights of this calm sheet ot water, with the
shadow of mountains over 7,315 metres (24,000 ft) high 'sleeping
on its bosom', rises the turbulent Teesta river.
In the north one of the important passes are
Chorten Nyimala, which at 19000 ft is also the highest usable pass
in Sikkim, and Kongra-la. Lonak-la connects the Lachen valley to
the Lonak valley in North Sikkim. Donkyia-la pass is another pass
in North Sikkim 'that links up the Lachen valley to the Lachung
valley.
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