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is at an altitude of 10,000
ft, an ascend of 5,000 ft from Gangtok in less than 15 kms.
Slightly less than 10 kms away from Karponang is 15th Mile or
Kyongnosia which lies on a saddle on the Chola Range and from
where a panoramic view of part of Gangtok and other surrounding
hills can be obtained. The
Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary with an area of 312km located nearby is rich in
alpine flora, fauna and avi-fauna. From here onwards to the Tsomgo(Changu)
lake, one
loses sight of the Khangchendzonga range. The road has less
gradient and the vegetation adopts an alpine nature.
About a kilometre ahead of Kyongnosia and about five minutes walk from the
roadside is the Tseten Tashi cave which is about twenty feet high
and so named after a naturalist of Sikkim who was also the Private
Secretary to the Chogyal. There is passage within the cave that
leads to its top.
Tsomgo(Changu)
lake, which is hardly 20 kms away from
the famous Nathula Pass and about 400 kms from Lhasa, falls in the
restricted area and hence an Inner Line Permit, which can be
obtained from the Police through the Tourism Department or travel
agent is required by visitors to visit this place. Foreign
nationals are also permitted to visit this lake. Photography is
now allowed and in fact parts of few Hindi films have been shot
here. Its cool, placid water harmonies with the scenic beauty
around which is doubled by its reflection in the lake. A small
temple of Lord Shiva is constructed on the lakeside. Primula
flowers and' other alpine vegetation grow around the lake, which
has an average depth of 50 ft, lend a pristine beauty to this
place. A footpath along the lake takes one to a resting shed - a
walk of about half a kilometre. During the winter months the lake
becomes frozen. The lake itself derives its water from the melting
snow on the mountains around, The river Lungtze Chu originates
from this lake and meets the Rangpo-chu further down its course.
During the olden times, lamas used to study the colour of the
water of the lake and forecast the future. If the waters of the
lake had a dark tinge, it foreshadowed a year of trouble and
unrest in the state. The lake has a few rainbow trout and if you
are lucky you may catch a glimpse at them.
The travel agents and Department of Tourism conducts package
tours by bus to this lake at selected months of the year. A bus
ticket to Tsomgo(Changu)
lake and back costs Rs 150/-. Taxis from Gangtok
can also be hired to Tsomgo. A small cab in which not more than 3
passengers are permitted can be hired for Rs 550/- to Tsomgo and
back. Hiring of a jeep which can accommodate upto 7 passengers
will cost about Rs 900/-. Private vehicles are not permitted to
the lake. Rides on yaks and mules are also offered at the lake
site. Tea and snacks are available at the dozen of temporary
stalls during the tourist season only. Some of the stalls even
keep film rolls and offer jackets, snow boots and waterboots on
hire. Because of the high altitude, heavy woolens are required to
be worn here throughout the year. There is no facility of
accommodation for the tourist. It is advisable to visit the lake
before noon as usually during the afternoons the weather becomes
inclement. Those with breathing problems should avoid exerting
themselves too much because of the scarcity of air at this
altitude.
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